Philosophia

Heidelberg was the trip love of Michael's first trip to Germany a few years ago, so he couldn't wait to introduce us. After our morning spent not really visiting the fairy tale castle, we headed up north in the general direction of Frankfurt to the small University town below an ancient castle. Driving into the town it appears to be modern and fairly large, but just a few minutes later we were in the small, old stone city I expected to see. Our chosen hostel was brand new, and by far landed at the very top of our lodging recommendation list. The location was phenomenal and the owner as sweet and welcoming as you could ever ask. Our cute little upstairs room was so comfortable, and we settled in for our short two-night stay. We took a recommendation from the owner for dinner, and were so pleasantly surprised with a chicly rustic restaurant that opened right up to the city's cathedral. We had a nice walk about after our meal, and headed back to take care of the annoying necessity of laundry. 

The next morning, we set out to see as much as we could manage in our only whole day. The main goal was a trek up to Philosophenweg, or Philosophers' Way - a beautiful mountainside trail that overlooks the city and the castle on the other side of the River Neckar, a smaller branch of the Rhine. We crossed the beautiful river, and started the unexpectedly tiring ascent up the stairs and hills. The cool German rain began to fall again, but this time it was welcome (besides it forcing Mark into his ziplock and into my purse). Halfway up, we passed one of many gates that led to small private orchards on the hill and heard a man's voice calling us over. In the usual German fashion his English was perfect, and he invited us into his garden to offer us some of the hundreds of green apples his tree was bearing, explaining that he had more fruit than he and his mother knew what to do with. The rain was falling, we were surrounded by hundreds of happy bees, and this sweet man just wanted to share his apples with everyone who passed - something about it all just made me feel overwhelmingly happy, and we continued up the hill refreshed and munching on the tastiest apple I've ever had. The view from Philosophenweg was (wait for it...) beautiful, and the sun came out just long enough for me to photograph and obsess over the incredible flower gardens. We climbed to the top of an old watch tower, had our lunch on a vine covered bench, and headed back down just in time to get out of a summer storm and into a beer. Then it was off to the grocery so we could have a home cooked meal and cocktails. 

Sadly we had to leave the next day, but not before making the hike up to the castle (which we could see out the hostel's kitchen window, by the way). We put on our serious shoes and made the steep climb. First stop was the castle's absolutely enormous wine storage barrel (approximately 58,100 gallons). No longer used to store wine, but a sight nonetheless. Next we decided to check out the very random German Apothecary Museum across the courtyard. I will just say, never did I expect to be so completely enthralled by an apothecary museum - we have both since become obsessed with furnishing homes, kitchens, and bars with apothecary cabinets and painted bottles. We spent the rest of the time exploring the amazing ruins and grounds. Before long, we had to pull ourselves away to get ourselves fed for the drive ahead, and I had to drag Michael away from his discovery of German Christmas superstores. Up next was the Netherlands, and though I didn't have quite enough of Heidelberg, I was ready for some windmill action...